Bahia
The Heartbeat of Capoeira
Bahia, a state in northeastern Brazil, is often celebrated as the cradle of Capoeira. This Afro-Brazilian martial art has deep roots in Bahia’s rich cultural tapestry.
For those new to Capoeira, understanding Bahia’s history, culture, and influence is essential to fully appreciate the art form.
Let’s embark on a journey to explore Bahia and its profound connection to Capoeira.
The Historical Tapestry of Bahia
Colonial Beginnings
Bahia’s history dates back to the early 16th century when Portuguese explorers first set foot in Brazil. The city of Salvador, founded in 1549, became the capital of the Portuguese colony. As a major port city, Salvador played a pivotal role in the transatlantic slave trade, bringing millions of Africans to Brazil.
African Influence
The enslaved Africans brought to Bahia came from diverse ethnic groups, primarily from West and Central Africa. They brought with them their languages, religions, music, and dances. Over time, these elements blended with indigenous and Portuguese influences, creating a unique Afro-Brazilian culture. This cultural fusion laid the groundwork for the emergence of Capoeira.
The Birth of Capoeira
Roots in Resistance
Capoeira emerged as a form of resistance among enslaved Africans in Brazil.
It was a way to preserve their cultural identity and a tool for survival. Disguised as a dance, Capoeira allowed practitioners to train for combat and plot escapes without arousing suspicion from their captors.
Quilombos: Havens of Freedom
Quilombos, communities of escaped slaves, became sanctuaries for Capoeira. The most famous quilombo, Palmares, was home to many skilled capoeiristas. These communities were centres of resistance and cultural preservation, where Capoeira flourished.
Capoeira Masters and Legends
Mestre Bimba
Manoel dos Reis Machado, known as Mestre Bimba, is one of the most influential figures in Capoeira's history. Born in Salvador in 1900, he founded the first Capoeira school, the Centro de Cultura Física e Luta Regional, in the 1930s. Mestre Bimba developed Capoeira Regional, a more structured and combative style, which gained legal recognition and helped elevate Capoeira’s status in Brazilian society.
Mestre Pastinha
Vicente Ferreira Pastinha, or Mestre Pastinha, was a key proponent of Capoeira Angola, the traditional form of Capoeira. He emphasized the art’s playful and strategic aspects, preserving its cultural and historical essence. Mestre Pastinha’s legacy continues to inspire Capoeiristas around the world.
Bahia’s Cultural Richness
Music and Dance
Bahia is synonymous with vibrant music and dance. Samba de roda, a traditional Afro-Brazilian dance, and the berimbau, Capoeira's most iconic musical instrument, are integral to Bahia’s cultural landscape. The atabaque drums' rhythmic beats and the berimbau's melodious chimes create an enchanting atmosphere during Capoeira Rodas.
Festivals and Celebrations
Bahia is renowned for its colourful festivals. The Carnaval of Salvador is one of the largest in the world, showcasing the exuberance of Bahian culture. Festas de Iemanjá, dedicated to the goddess of the sea, and Lavagem do Bonfim, a religious procession, are other significant events that reflect Bahia’s spiritual and cultural diversity.
Visiting Bahia: A Capoeirista’s Guide
Historical Sites
1. Pelourinho
The historic centre of Salvador, Pelourinho, is a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its well-preserved colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, and vibrant cultural scene. It was once a central location for the slave trade, and today, it stands as a symbol of Afro-Brazilian culture, with numerous Capoeira schools, music venues, and cultural centres.
2. Forte de Santo Antônio
Forte da Capoeira is a fortress in the Santo Antônio Além do Carmo neighbourhood. It houses the Fundação Mestre Bimba, a cultural centre dedicated to Mestre Bimba's legacy and the promotion of Capoeira Regional. Visitors can explore exhibitions on Capoeira’s history and participate in workshops and rodas.
3. Elevador Lacerda
Connecting the lower city (Cidade Baixa) with the upper city (Cidade Alta) in Salvador, the Elevador Lacerda is an iconic art deco elevator. From the top, you can enjoy panoramic views of the Baía de Todos os Santos (All Saints Bay) and the Mercado Modelo, a bustling market below that offers handicrafts, souvenirs, and traditional Bahian food.
4. Mercado Modelo
Located at the base of the Elevador Lacerda, the Mercado Modelo is one of Salvador’s most famous markets. It is housed in a neoclassical building with over 250 stalls selling local crafts, souvenirs, and traditional foods. The market’s basement is rumoured to have been used as a holding area for enslaved Africans before they were sold.
5. Igreja de São Francisco
This baroque church in Pelourinho is renowned for its stunning interior, adorned with intricate wood carvings and gold leaf. It is a masterpiece of colonial Brazilian architecture and a testament to the wealth and artistry of Salvador during the colonial period.
6. Solar do Unhão
This 17th-century sugar mill complex has been transformed into the Museum of Modern Art of Bahia (MAM-BA). The site offers a history and contemporary art blend, with exhibits showcasing modern Brazilian artists. The outdoor area features beautiful views of the bay and hosts popular jazz sessions on weekends.
7. Casa do Benin
A cultural center in Pelourinho dedicated to celebrating the African heritage of Bahia. The centre features exhibits on the cultural and historical connections between Bahia and the West African nation of Benin, including artifacts, photographs, and art installations.
8. Igreja de Nosso Senhor do Bonfim
One of Salvador’s most important religious sites, this church is a pilgrimage destination for many devotees. The Lavagem do Bonfim, an annual festival in January, involves a grand procession where participants wash the church steps in a symbolic act of purification.
9. Dique do Tororó
A park surrounds this scenic lake in Salvador and features large orixá sculptures representing the deities of the Afro-Brazilian Candomblé religion. The lake offers a peaceful retreat within the city and is a popular spot for leisure activities.
10. Palácio Rio Branco
One of the oldest palaces in Brazil, this historic building now houses the Bahia State Museum. Its grand architecture and exhibits on the state’s political and cultural history offer a glimpse into Salvador's colonial history.
11. La na Rampa do Cais
Located in the lower city near the port area, La na Rampa do Cais is a historic site that once served as a bustling dock where goods and enslaved Africans were unloaded. Today, it is a significant landmark that offers insight into the harsh realities of the transatlantic slave trade. Visitors can reflect on the history while enjoying views of the bay and the vibrant atmosphere of the surrounding area.
Conclusion
Bahia’s significance to Capoeira cannot be overstated. It is the birthplace of this vibrant martial art and a living testament to the resilience and creativity of Afro-Brazilian culture. For beginners in Capoeira, understanding Bahia’s history and cultural richness provides a deeper appreciation of the art form. So, whether you’re planning a visit or want to learn more, let Bahia’s enchanting spirit inspire your Capoeira journey.